Way back in January, my friend Jess called me and asked point-blank, “what do I need to do if I want to hike 40 miles in a weekend?”
I paused and started to list things, before realizing I should ask why Jess was asking. Turns out, she had decided to hike the Skyline to Sea Trail, which runs from Castle Rock State Park (outside Saratoga, CA) to Waddell Beach (about a mile west of Rancho del Oso, CA). Its a combination of trails that wind through the unique Northern California coastal forest ecosystem and, most notably, travel through one of the largest stands of old-growth redwood trees. The trail, along with many of the redwood groves along the trail are maintained by the Sempervirens Club, a group which banded together in 1900 to protect redwood trees (Sequoia sempervirens) from logging. In 1976, the 32 mile Skyline to Sea trail was completed.
After a little bit of reading, I was hooked. The trail seemed like the perfect trip to kick off the 2019 hiking season. We decided on the classic route, beginning at the Saratoga Gap Trail. On Day One, we’d follow the Saratoga Gap to the Travertine Springs Trail, to the Saratoga Toll Road (although this section was dubious due to recent flooding), to the Skyline to Sea Trail, and eventually to the Waterman Trail Camp. On Day Two, we’d take the Skyline to Sea Trail to the Sequoia Trail, and camp in Jay Camp in the heart of Big Basin State Park. The last day, we’d simply take the Skyline to Sea trail all the way to the sea.
In an effort to make the first trip of the year a little easier, I cut some weight by purchasing a new pack (the Granite Gear Crown 2.0) and ditched my tent body, opting to use just the rainfly and the ground cover. Rather than nalgenes, I used two old 1.25L bottles paired with a lightweight bladder for water.
Day One: (11.5 miles) The trip began ceremoniously with some irate day-hiker road rage. I can only hope that his anger wore off once he began hiking, but who knows. Matthew dropped us off and after getting our permits checked twice by a zealous state park ranger, we were off. Following some beautiful vistas overlooking the two ridges between us and the ocean, we learned that our maps hadn’t been updated with a few minor trail diversions. We took a two mile loop before realizing we had bypassed the trail we wanted. Once we found the Saratoga Toll Road, the rest of the day continued smoothly.
Jess at the lovely vista
For almost seven miles, the echoes from a nearby shooting range followed us eerily through the thick forest. We noticed two cars, which had careened years ago from the highway which wound through the hills (sometimes directly) above us. At one point, I stepped down and found the ground was significantly softer than I recalled, only to look down and realize in horror that I was about to squish a small snake. I picked up my foot and it slithered off but not before turning around to look at me, crouched on the ground and apologizing profusely, with what I hoped was forgiveness. Jess reassured me that it probably accepted my apology.
At the end of the day, we ran into a group of men who were hiking the same trail. One said, “race you to the beach” to which I replied, “well we’ll see”, continuing my trend of being terrible at making friends on trail. Jess and I arrived at Waterman Trail Camp, which was labelled as a “primitive campground”, to find running water, a pit toilet, and vaults for our food. So much for carrying water filters and cathole trowels.
We sit on the ground listening to the birds above us, feeling the afternoon sun filter through the young redwoods and enjoy the stillness. Eventually, we cajole ourselves into setting up the shelter and making dinner. While cooking, Jess runs out of fuel and I discover that my recently repaired stove has developed a new issue and wouldn’t light. We take turns with my fuel and Jess’ stove and giggle about hanging our socks and underwear on the tent poles. “Underwear everywhere,” Jess whisper-screams in a way that makes me cackle. As we go to eat, Jess discovers that she forgot a spork so we share mine.
Jess enjoying camp
At 5:45, Jess and I lie down and listen to a few episodes of Welcome to Nightvale before getting into our sleeping bags and reading. As I read, I start coughing and my nose starts running and I feel my sinuses start to ache. This, of course, leads to a nice case of Nighttime Anxiety. I start to wonder if we should bail on the trip and then I start to miss Matthew, and I can’t stop blowing my nose to top it all off. I meditate on the things I am grateful for until I fall asleep.
Day Two: (12 miles) We are prepared for a lot of elevation change today but we were unprepared for how spectacularly beautiful it would be. Just a mile in, we begin to notice the first of the old-growth redwoods. They are anywhere from 500 to 2,000 years old and I am absolutely awestruck. It feels like walking through a cathedral. It also feels like we might run into a pack of coelophysis (little theropods from the late Triassic). I spot trillium flowers and before long it starts to feel like a game of “I Spy”,
Jess: I see a fern I’ve never seen!
Kate: I see a banana slug!
Jess: I see a skink!
I find myself absolutely enthralled.
Jess with the original “Old Boys’ Club”
Just as all the visitors are starting to head back to their cars, we arrive in Big Basin State Park and we end up walking alongside a couple who has been camping once. They wonder about cooking outside and what it is like to backpack and they ask us if we “hike the way Alex Honnold does, you know, without ropes.” The last mile is a roadwalk on a paved road and my toes are feeling exceptionally tender.
After picking a campsite, we put up the shelter and discover that a small herd (colony?) of jumping spider also inhabits this campsite. Considering the three inch gap between the ground cover and the rain fly, we decide to move. The first step is a poorly choreographed spider dance, in which Jess and I try to usher the spiders out of the tent without killing them before we ultimately resort to furiously shaking the whole shelter in the air. Our second pick is spider-free and I take off my shoes. Four toenails have fluid underneath them and I have a blister that runs the length of my instep. Party on. I do some blister care and elevate but I’m not equipped to deal with the fluid toenail situation on trail.
There is no phone service at the campsite and we need to coordinate Matthew picking us up the following afternoon so we begrudgingly put our shoes back on and backtrack the mile to the ranger station for some wifi. As soon as we get there, we start laughing. There are families milling around taking pictures with the signs at the visitor center, most people dressed in city clothes. We are sweaty, shirtless, and attracting some attention. It doesn’t help that I blew my nose into a piece of KT tape that I took off my knee…I make contact with Matthew and try to coordinate signing a lease back in Colorado and then Jess and I march back to our camp for dinner and Nightvale.
Juicy
Day Three: (12.5 miles) We wake up, eat a cold breakfast, and get moving quickly. The trail is damaged and the detours are supposedly sketchy, plus we need to be at our pick-up spot by 2:30, which means we need to move at a minimum of 2.1 miles an hour. Jess plays music from Les Miserables, then Hamilton, then some Lorde and it powers us through five miles and over the strange detours (which involve balancing on logs precariously placed above mudslide areas).
Opal Falls
After having crossed all manner of strange “bridges” over an unusually high water flow (balancing on two overturned piece of gutter flashing, anyone?) in Opal Creek, we arrive at the final crossing to find the bridge has been washed out and is downstream, wedged between some rocks. We weigh our options, which don’t rock, and decide on crossing in an upstream section where it is only knee-deep. The current is strong and irregular but its doable. Jess makes her first-ever river crossing!
Jess, kicking ass as usual
Gradually we descend out of the redwood forests into eucalyptus forests and meadows. I suggest that we play the “Guess the Animal” game, a Tara family classic and learn that Jess hates the “Guess the Animal” game.
A centipede
Calla Lillies
In the gentle silence, I start to wonder why I didn’t pursue a career in the outdoors when I was younger and then it hits me. When asked what career I wanted as a small child, I would always answer with an outdoor job (hawk rehabilitation in Montana, Park Ranger in Alaska, author in a Colorado mountain town, etc) and nearly every time, the adult asking the question would respond, “you’re too smart for that, you’ll be a lawyer/doctor.” I suppose you hear that enough times and you’ll start to believe it. I feel grateful to have returned to being outside, despite my best efforts to end up in an office or laboratory.
Eventually, we pass by a farm with hedges thick with honeysuckle and the air smells perfect. Our pace quickens and before long, we are running gleefully across the highway and taking off our shoes in front of the ocean. It’s 1:41 pm. I look at the sneakers which held me for nine months of work at my last, through a lot of nasty days, and declare they are ready for the trash can. My sore toenails agree.
Jess and I eat our peanut m+ms quietly as the wind picks up and it begins to rain. Then we gleefully realize we beat the boys who challenged us to race on the first day of our hike. About 45 minutes later, they walk across the highway. Jess declares that she is ready for more hikes, and I have to agree; it feels like a wonderful start to a good season.